In Vincent van Gogh's Footsteps Through Paris

There are countless ways to see Paris, but for art lovers we have a real gem – a short tour of Paris in the footsteps of the famous Dutch post-impressionist. Vincent came to Paris after unsuccessful attempts to make a breakthrough in the Netherlands, because in Paris, right near the hill of Montmartre, lived his brother Theo, who worked at the Goupil gallery, dealt in art, and made a very good living from it. His brother invited Vincent, insisting that he simply had to see Paris and get acquainted with the new art movement being born there – Impressionism – and Vincent agreed. Did Paris live up to the young painter's expectations?

Montmartre, early 20th century

And then some. In February 1886 Vincent moved in with Theo. He could not afford to keep his own flat, since he hadn't sold a single painting, but his brother saw his talent and gladly supported the rising artist. The two settled together at 54 Rue Laval, which has since been renamed and would now be rue Victor Massé 25. Theo's flat, though pleasant, was too small, and Vincent had nowhere to work. A couple of months later the brothers moved to a larger flat at 54 Rue Lepic.

"View from Theo's Apartment", 1887, Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam

Nearby was the studio and flat of his good friend Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec – at 21 rue Caulaincourt. The two painters worked together a great deal, drew models together, and Vincent used to attend the parties Henri held. Close by was another place important not only to Van Gogh but to all the Impressionists – the Restaurant du Chalet, formerly at 43 Avenue de Clichy. Here, together with Lautrec, Gauguin and a few other artists, he exhibited his work for the first time. It was a simple little restaurant where workers gathered to eat after a day's labor. The artists argued for hours over whose painting would hang where, and on the first day of the exhibition they sat anxiously at one table, too nervous from excitement to touch their soup – that is how they awaited visitors' reactions. Sadly, they were bitterly disappointed – the weary diners did not so much as lift their eyes to the paintings. In the same Montmartre stood the restaurant "Chez Bataille," a favorite of Vincent and Theo's, at 20 rue des Abbesses, though it is not clear whether the building standing at that address today is the same one that housed the restaurant; still, letters and memoirs confirm that the place was a favorite among painters, and the proprietress would always seat all the artists together in one of the restaurant's two rooms. It was here that Van Gogh met Gauguin – an acquaintance that would prove significant for the whole history of art.

"Portrait of Père Tanguy", 1887, Musée Rodin, Paris

Making your way down from the hill of Montmartre toward the center of Paris, you can stop at 14 rue Clauzel, where Père Tanguy's art supply shop once stood. All the Impressionists bought their supplies from Père Tanguy, and he would display a few of their works in the shop window or hang them on the walls of the store. It must be said, Père Tanguy wasn't the best salesman – he would sometimes refuse to sell a work to a customer who came in, or deliberately quote a higher price. His wife, by contrast, was more down-to-earth – once, when a customer didn't have enough money for a Cézanne still life with apples, she simply cut off a piece of the painting for the amount he had.

Once he arrived in Paris, Van Gogh soaked up everything he could, and the museums of Paris were his greatest treasure trove. Among his favorites were the Louvre and the Musée du Luxembourg. At the Louvre he was most drawn to the works of Eugène Delacroix, in which the first hints of more modern art could already be seen. Vincent studied his technique and use of color. The Musée du Luxembourg was known at the time for contemporary art, and Vincent would drop by every week to draw inspiration.

The Louvre, Paris, late 19th century

The Luxembourg Gardens, late 19th century

If you have a little more time, don't miss the Temple de l'Étoile, at 54-56 Avenue de la Grande Armée, where Vincent used to come to listen to Pastor Bersier preach. The place has an extraordinary atmosphere.

In the end, it must be said that Paris had an enormous influence on Van Gogh's painting – above all, it was here that he discovered the Impressionists, with whom he became utterly enchanted. After arriving in Paris, his canvases gained a vibrancy and brightness of color that had been missing before – at one point his brother Theo even worried that, in imitating the Impressionists, Vincent was losing his own uniqueness. Sadly, in the end Vincent could not bear the fast pace and chaos of city life, and he left for the south of France, for Arles, where his artistic path reached its true peak – but about life in Arles, more another time.